Klio in Queens shows just how good kosher dining can be

When you spot Klio at the corner of Queens Boulevard and 70th Avenue in the heart of Forest Hills, Queens, you might think you entered the wrong address into your GPS. The restaurant is a far cry from the dark, design-agnostic kosher spots that pepper New York and the country as a whole.

But rub your eyes and start wetting your palate: this is, indeed, Klio, the fabulous new kosher Greek restaurant spearheaded by members of the local Bukharian Jewish community.

Inside, the space is all earthy tones and gorgeous wood, every detail clearly thought through. The bar looks like it was plucked from a high-end Midtown hotel (minus the spirits menu: the owners are still waiting on their liquor license). A glass-front wine cellar refines the space even further, while vases and light fixtures strike just the right balance between elegant and warm. Even the plates are beautiful, the kind that make you want to flip them over, find the brand and replace your entire set at home.

But Klio isn’t just a pretty face: the food is excellent, and so is the service.

Kick things off with the appetizers—the tzatziki is bright and punchy, the falafel is always a good idea — but don’t get too full on the mezze or the parade of little fish-based starters that opens the menu, both of which can feel a little underwhelming.

Save room for the salads, entrées and desserts, which are where the kitchen really shines. On a recent visit, I tried the Greek salad (fresh and memorable) and the Caesar (classic but still worth ordering), followed by two pasta dishes: a white mushroom pasta that sounded too creamy but turned out to be perfectly balanced, and a pappardelle with eggplant and ricotta that could’ve been heavy-handed but was instead delicate, delicious and far more refined than an eggplant parm in disguise.

Then there’s the fish, the heart of the restaurant’s Greekness. The filleted options are limited but spot-on: the salmon was cooked properly, the cod melted at the touch of a fork and the branzino was absolutely delectable. Each came with a side, all of which were solid: the fried green beans and cauliflower were good, the potatoes were even better (are you surprised?). Klio also offers whole-fish options that feel adventurous for the kosher scene and show just how skilled the kitchen really is.

As for dessert, no matter what you do or how full you are, you absolutely must order the Klio, which is an ice cream drizzled with honey and raw tahini, then topped with halva and roasted pistachios—one of the very best kosher ice creams in New York, if I dare say so (and I dare say so).

The staff deserves a mention too. Professional service is, let’s admit it, one of the biggest gaps in the kosher restaurant world—but Klio’s team nails it. The owner even makes the rounds, which is a nice touch (and, let’s be honest, a very Jewish one). The only quibbles? The music leans a bit too loud and the bathroom lock is deceptive—I learned that the hard way when someone barged while I thought i was safely hidden away.

In a way, Klio is more than a restaurant. It’s a quiet call to arms, asking kosher diners if we’ve been demanding enough from our culinary scene. Judging by my experience at Klio, the answer might be no—at least not until now.