Every restaurant in Manhattan is, at bottom, an argument against the weather. The walls, the ductwork, the heat lamps that sprouted along every avenue during the shed years all exist so that nothing happening outside can touch your dinner. Sukkot proposes the opposite deal: for a week we are told to eat under a roof … This week at Libbi, the best seat in the house is outside

Every year around now, the Upper West Side stages a small civic miracle: balconies that have held nothing but a dying fern since April suddenly sprout schach, and every restaurant with a patio gets the same phone call from the same people. This year Malka has an answer. Eyal Shani’s Upper West Side outpost at … Malka’s Upper West Side patio becomes a sukkah for four nights