review

A homemade knäckebröd-style crisp bread, a seemingly classic margherita pizza topped with intensely savory dried shiitake mushrooms, a build-it-yourself BBQ halibut taco served with Korean daikon: these aren’t the kinds of dishes kosher palates are used to. Perhaps, with the opening of Libbi at 205 East 81st Street on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, that will At Abaita, chef Davide Donagrandi gives us what we want. At Libbi, he gives us what we need.

When dating my now-husband, I used to describe him to friends as home. He wasn’t perfect, but he felt warm, secure, familiar in a way that was grounding. Oddly enough, a Thursday night at Malka in DUMBO—celebrity chef Eyal Shani’s Israeli kosher restaurant, with another location on the Upper East Side of Manhattan—evokes the same Thursday nights at Malka feel like a trip to Tel Aviv

What does it take to run a truly great kosher restaurant? Surprisingly, despite the abundance of mediocre options in the kosher dining scene, the formula for success mirrors that of any exceptional non-kosher establishment: outstanding food and drink options, impeccable service and a vibrant, welcoming atmosphere. It’s unfortunate that, while there are certainly many good Castell’s in Brooklyn has perfected the art of the kosher restaurant