What does it take to run a truly great kosher restaurant? Surprisingly, despite the abundance of mediocre options in the kosher dining scene, the formula for success mirrors that of any exceptional non-kosher establishment: outstanding food and drink options, impeccable service and a vibrant, welcoming atmosphere.
It’s unfortunate that, while there are certainly many good kosher options throughout New York, few restaurants manage to excel in all the key areas. You might delight in delectable food served in unremarkable settings, or enjoy a great ambiance at a place where the fare leaves something to be desired.
Kosher diners have long had to compromise—until the opening of Castell’s at 222 Avenue U in Brooklyn this past September.
Serving a manageable menu filled with Italian classics and spins on the genre—a sweet caponata served on a bed of ricotta and honey alongside a trio of crostini and a cacio e pepe pasta made with Parmigiano Reggiano, for example—Castell’s is a 3,800-square-foot eatery outfitted with white tablecloths and staffed by a team that’s as attentive and knowledgeable as you’d expect from an establishment charging the relatively hefty prices Castell’s commands. Bonus points for the stellar server uniforms that everyone is rocking.
The approachability of the menu is one of the many things that makes Castell’s special: the selections sound familiar enough to be ordered without having to ask too many questions and, most importantly, the list doesn’t go on for pages as is the case at many kosher restaurants. What’s more, the eatery looks away from the fusion trend that similar establishments have embraced throughout the years in an effort to expand their pool of patrons. At Castell’s, you’re only getting Italian food.
Among the culinary standouts is a surprisingly refreshing tuna carpaccio, an absolute must-order. The thin layers of fish are adorned with crispy sunchokes, onions, fresno peppers and a touch of lemon that helps all flavors stand out. The antipasto particularly hits alongside a seemingly simple insalata mista della casa, prepared with Romaine lettuce, radicchio, sweet peppers, Parmigiano Reggiano and lightly drizzled with a red wine vinaigrette.
Onto the pasta: whether on purpose or not, the most captivating noodle option seems to refer to a similar dish served at a popular non-kosher restaurant in New York: the chiocciole alla vodka piccante, which eerily remind of Carbone’s uber-famous spicy rigatoni.
A special mention goes to the capellini al forno: a nest of baked pasta blanketed in a layer of crispy cheese and cream that crackles as you use your spoon to serve it, oozing with velvety richness. Think of it as a sophisticated, adult twist on classic mac and cheese—one that’s a true indulgence for cheese lovers.
Fish-wise, patrons should skip the usual choices like salmon and opt for the wild Dover piccata, which is deboned tableside, or the unique limanda—a sole filet available pan-seared, oreganata or almondine.
Though a little bit of this and a little bit of that will likely leave you satisfied by the time dessert rolls around, you’d be remiss not to finish off your meal with the pistachio gelato—one of the standout offerings on a dessert menu that also features olive oil cake and tiramisu, among other treats. Fair warning, however: on a recent Tuesday night, one of the restaurant’s managers mentioned that the dolci menu is still being refined due to ingredient shortages. Authentic mascarpone, it seems, is hard to find in kosher form.
Overall, the attention to every detail—the very thing that makes Castell’s one of the best kosher dairy restaurants in New York—is most evidently seen in the drink menu and the stunning bar behind which the cocktails are being prepared, a rarity in this section of the local culinary world.
Classic drinks like the East Side and the Rattlesnake are definitely worth the calories, but since you’re there, you might as well indulge in some creative concoctions: the Truffle Hog tastes like drinking a plate of truffles, and the Yalla Jimador is a sure bet for anyone who loves a spicy drink. Fun fact: the bar makes its own Campari and vermouth to adhere to kosher standards.
More than anything, Castell’s restores faith in the art of kosher dining, proving to the masses willing to travel to the depths of Brooklyn that it is, indeed, possible, to abide by the laws of kashrut without compromising on great dining-out experiences.
